Coral Reefing - Reef Hobbyist

The Saltwater Reef Aquarium as a Hobby

coralreefing — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 18:29:09 +0000

The aquarium hobby is a huge hobby worldwide and there are lots of people who either keep an aquarium or would like to keep one. There are many types of aquarium – coldwater, freshwater, brackish, saltwater etc.

The saltwater reef aquarium hobby is becoming more and more popular. With media coverage of natural reefs, public aquariums etc people have greater access to the beauty of the reefs. And now, you can have your own reef aquarium to enjoy in your own home…

Coral reefs are a true wonder to behold. Having your very own mini coral reef aquarium in your home is both challenging and rewarding… and unfortunately at times frustrating. There are many people who would like to set up a saltwater reef aquarium, some of whom have already kept other types of aquatic life (whether fresh or salt water). I hear many times from people that they would like to set up a marine reef system but feel that it is too hard to do so. As long as all the facts about a reef aquarium are known then setting up a saltwater aquarium is actually quite easy to accomplished.

The saltwater reef hobby is becoming ever more popular these days. Sometimes this popularity is because of the wrong reasons… In the majority of cases it is rightfully so because of the general fascination of the colorful reef aquatic life which can be kept. The good thing nowadays is that there is an abundance of technology which is either an improvement upon old marine aquarium technologies or is brand new technology in itself that has made an improvement on this hobby.

The problem with all this aquarium technology is that sometimes it can leave the marine aquarist bewildered as to what to use, where to use it, what it is, and which is best for your particular situation etc. Worse, some people are put off starting a marine reef aquarium completely which, to me, is a complete shame.

Even those people who understand the various types of marine reef technology are sometimes confronted with another area of confusion surrounding this hobby – conflicting advice. This website was created so that, hopefully, the pitfalls which can be
encountered with reef aquariums will be avoided. It will also answer some questions you may already have and provide some insight into areas of the saltwater reef hobby you may have not yet been exposed to…

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Coral Livestock Interaction and Care Requirements

Aaron — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:30:21 +0000

I have heard a coral reef referred to as a “wall of mouths”… I like to say that coral lives to kill… and these statements are pretty accurate. Knowing that your coral livestock is expensive and some is relatively rare and difficult to acquire, you should take the time to make sure your corals are picked and placed within your reef aquarium correctly.

This means keeping them far enough apart, so they do no harm to each other, while still keeping them in the right part of the reef. With the right lights and nutrient export you can keep some corals from most or all of these groups.

Here are some guidelines that will help you choose your coral livestock and know what kind of system you will need…

Corals You Can Grow and How They Interact

Soft Corals: Zoas and Palys

Leathers and Xenia… this group is the most diverse and tends to be the easiest to keep, and least dangerous to its neighbors. Completely made up of flesh like tissue, soft coral are attached to the reef by a "foot". Some softies can damage other corals, but are usually the loser of a battle with a stony coral (of either type, SPS or LPS)

Soft corals lighting requirements are low to med, but can be acclimated to almost any marine lighting. These corals can be found all over the reef, from the low light areas to the sun burn zone. Usually filter type feeders some softies can be fed small bits of food.

Large Polyp Stony Corals–(LPS)

Acans and Duncans, frog spawn and brains… LPS are the most aggressive type of true coral you can keep. Most consume nutrients via feeding tentacles filtering nutrients from the flow around it. On most, the tentacles form a circle around the mouth, and they can have long "sweeper tentacles" that on some corals can be 10"+.

These tentacles have powerful stinging cells that can release toxins and attach the tentacle to the prey item, which may be a neighboring coral. These stinging cells and toxins can continue damaging the sting victim well after separation.

If the prey is deemed appropriate for consumption, the LPS can eviscerate strands of digestive organs that contain enzymes to digest the prey externally and move the nutrients to the mouth. They can be acclimated to almost any marine lighting, usually low to mid reef placement, LPS can occasionally be found on top of the reef, and can eat quite large food items.

Small Polyp Stony Corals–(SPS)

Acropora and Montipora… branches and discs at the top of the reef, SPS are difficult to keep, and the fastest growing stony corals are in this group. Lighting and water quality requirements make this type of coral suitable only for the serious aquarist who has experience with, and knowledge of reef chemistry.

Primarily filter feeders, the tiny flower like polyps that cover the surface of most of these corals can retract into the skeletal structure. You will need a metal halide light, T5, or LED lighting, at high wattage to maintain SPS, also good nutrient export is needed.

These corals can be fed very small foods, such as rotifers, but some if not most will feed almost totally on phyto planktons, or other micro particles.

Coralimorphians-False corals

Anemones and mushroom corals… these animals are very diverse and potentially aggressive. Somewhat like soft corals, coralimorphs are all very soft tissue with a "foot" that attaches them to the reef, however unlike soft corals they can move depending on water conditions, lighting, or neighboring species, and anemones are notorious for finding power head and overflow intakes.

Some mushrooms and anemones can be relatively easy to keep, and some, not so easy at all, ricordeas and carpet anemones can be particularly sensitive. While some species are easy to care for and others not, they all have powerfull stinging cells that can damage or kill most other corals.

All anemones and some mushrooms will accept some meaty foods, and most can be acclimated to almost any marine lighting, but some anemones will need something better than power compacts. These animals can be acclimated to nutrient heavy waters, border line toxic water (NOT ENDORSED BY ME), and they may even thrive in those conditions as well.

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Reef Aquarium Livestock Selection

Aaron — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:23:31 +0000

By Aaron Ediger, Main Contributing Author for Coral Reefing…

I did not like the movie "Finding Nemo", it caused more clown fish to die than I want to think about. It made animal cruelty trendy over night, and the crowds cheered. Every person with a toddler, (and a few immature morons) went out and got clownfish and an anemone, and/ or hippo tang without proper knowledge or guidance, only to find out how territorial and aggressive the clown fish can be, and how infection and disease prone the hippos can be, (not to mention they eat a lot, are easily mal-nutritioned, and they get big), then proceeded to torture and execute thousands if not millions of poor little fishes and nemos.

Careful Aquarium livestock selection

On the other hand, deciding what kind of saltwater tank you want to set up is knowing what animals and plants you want to put in your system, and then finding out which fish and invertebrates are compatible with each other… and which ones are known to be trouble makers. Some saltwater fish can be housed with saltwater corals, and some will eat them in nightly invasions.

With proper research and guidance through planning which livestock and equipment selection you can set up for a successful system that is peaceful and thriving, has nutrient breakdown and has export balanced… and is stable enough to keep its inhabitants happy and healthy. The keys to success in this saltwater reef aquarium hobby are the same as life in general, -ask questions, -do research, -and never assume.

Careful livestock selection and introduction of your marine reef aquarium will ensure that the potential of your investment in your reef hobby will be fully realized. Many fish, shrimps and crabs are territorial and aggressive and will fight to the death, not only their own species, but any interloper that may happen into their range, and some corals simply live to kill their neighbors and grow.

Be Picky About Where You Buy Your Reef Aquarium Livestock From

Part of the problem with this reef hobby is people (pet stores included) who are all to eager to make a sale in spite of the health, or life of anything they are able sell. This is where you as the marine reef hobbyist can make a difference, making sure that the environment the animal is going into is appropriate, balanced and stable… and the animal is obtained from a reputable source who does not engage in illegal harvesting or does business with others who do so.

Even better is buying known aqua cultured and captive bred species, to ensure the health of both the particular animal you purchased, and the health of the habitat where the species originated from. Captive-grown means control over the aqua-environment over generations of growing and breeding, thus making corals and fish better adapted to the environment people keep, can handle more drastic changes to its habitat when placed in a new reef aquarium, and they tend to be more resilient and healthy.

Fortunately taking these steps gives the livestock you choose the best chance at a long happy life, helps promote a more earth friendly approach to the hobby, and supports the people with a vested interest in their systems.

Reef Safe Livestock

The term "reef safe" is somewhat misleading; many fish that are as a species deemed safe, but individuals can break the rules. Knowing if you are going to keep coral is the main consideration for the non-reef safe fish, though they can also be predatory with small inverts as well.

The best approach is not only to have a list of intended livestock, but also an order of introduction, as there is going to be a pecking order with the fish and the weakest fish should be introduced first and the most aggressive last. Knowing whether you are going to have photosynthetic animals and plants will influence the type of lighting and circulation you will need.

Find a Local Aquarium Club

With proper planning you will be able to enjoy your aquarium hobby for years to come, providing an appropriate environment for animals that will be endangered soon, if they aren’t already. There are also national and local clubs that are some of the best sources for advice, livestock, and even decent quality used equipment.

You will also find the clubs to be full knowledgeable people who can help you in the planning stages and share their successes and failures, giving you some insight into just how in depth this hobby is, and how dedicated you really need to be. You can Google for the reef aquarium clubs in your area…

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What Is A Marine Reef System?

coralreefing — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 21:08:08 +0000

A saltwater marine reef aquarium is a system where the home aquarist attempts to replicate a small natural coral reef environment and maintain living coral reef organisms within the confines of a closed, home aquarium.

In any aquarium system and especially the marine reef system you need to concentrate on the requirements of the coral and fish livestock that you will be caring for. It is the livestock that is all important and everything you do as an aquarist is for them… All livestock require stable aquarium conditions especially corals and other sessile invertebrates.

In a saltwater marine reef system the first thing you need to concentrate on and provide is water quality and stability, the second is adequate lighting. If you are able to provide both of these then your corals and other aquarium livestock will thank you for it.

There are, however, four types of marine reef systems which are determined by the biological filtration and by the invertebrate and fish life which is maintained within the aquarium. This number could be reduced by considering only inhabitants, as both types of filtration could be used, or even a mixture of both, whatever the inhabitants. However for clarity four are explained below.

These are:
• Saltwater marine reef system with a manmade filtration
• Saltwater marine reef system with a natural filtration
• Coral and invertebrate marine reef system
• Mixed reef system

(It should be noted that both the systems which are classed by filtration type do have manmade technology in use, for example heaters, return pumps, circulation pumps etc.)

Marine Reef System With a Man Made Filtration

A saltwater marine reef system supported by manmade filtration is an aquarium which utilizes man’s technology to provide various aspects to running the system. This man made technology is based upon the mechanical, biological and chemical filtration aspects which are discussed in more detail later on this website.

Marine Reef System With a Natural Filtration

A saltwater marine reef system supported by natural filtration is an aquarium which utilizes primarily natural filtration methods for running the system. Man made technology of course still has to be used in some ways.

Coral And Invertebrate Marine Reef System

This type of marine reef system is one where fish are not kept, just the reef itself. Many other types of reef life, as available and suitable, are maintained. A number of aquarists nowadays are setting up these types of system as without fish there is little or no predation and the smaller organisms are able to flourish. It is also a little easier to maintain water quality as there aren’t any fish to feed (you may still need to feed other reef life). Waste, thus organic decay is not produced at the levels that would occur if fish were present.

Mixed Reef System

A mixed reef system is an aquarium which holds corals, invertebrates and fish. Although the water quality is harder to maintain because of the fish, the aquarium does look more natural, with the various colors of the fish and their movement. If you decide upon this type of system you need to ensure that you do not overstock, mainly fish. This is they system that I prefer… and visitors to your home appreciate the mixed system too.

Regardless of which system you choose… you need to devote at least a couple of hours a week to
perform the required maintenance on the system. Failing to do the routine maintenance will doom your saltwater reef aquarium hobby…

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Organic Decay and Nutrient Export in the Reef Aquarium

Aaron — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 16:30:00 +0000

Nutrient export is what separates a nasty brown algae filled tank from a beautiful, healthy successful coral reef aquarium. The best way to understand this concept is the circle of life. By feeding your fish, coral, and inverts you accelerate this circle because your adding dead or soon to be dead animals or plants to a confined biotope. This is where the "export" comes in. Uneaten food, livestock waste, and what ever dies ends up going thru stages of organic decay. This includes the nitrogen chain (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), phosphate, raw proteins, calcium, carbonate, aminos, etc…..

A lot of what decays into the water is useful by some life form in the system, for good or bad. Every thing uses aminos and proteins, and bacteria can complete the nitrogen chain, just not fast enough.

Excess nutrients can show them selves in a lot of different ways, here are some;

–diatoms- brown film on sand and rocks, this is almost always present just not very visible and is a food source for many reef inhabitants
–Hair algae or other algae growth
–aiptasia- little brown anemones
–cyno bacteria- red, brown, or green slime

Although most people do not like these issues, I am a big fan, here is why. These different "problems" are all the system dealing with an excess of nutrients in a healthy, and VISIBLE manner, they are consuming nutrients that would become toxic if allowed to build in the system, and letting you know at the same time. There are several ways to lower nutrients in the system, most of which are filtration, the easiest is feeding less and proper maintenance, and the most difficult is doing the research, and taking the steps required to provide a proper environment to maintain these majestic creatures.

There are 3 types of filtration, mechanical, biological, and chemical, here are some examples and explanations;

–Mechanical–
–Protein skimmer; A good skimmer is a very useful piece of equipment, it bonds micro bubbles to proteins in the water to form a foam like scum which then rises up a riser tube to a collection cup.
–Canister filter; These are filters that force water thru a series of chambers in a sealed canister that can contain a variety of particle filters and potentially chemical filtration.
–Hang on back (H.O.B.); Similar in effect to a canister, pulls water into a chamber that hangs on the rim of the tank and forces flow thru a series of cartridges.
–Chemical–
–Activated carbon; single most effective chemical filter you can use, attracts many impurities from the water. Effective for 4-6 weeks, then needs to be removed.
–Phoshate sponge; does what it says, removes phosphate, different products have different life spans.
–Biological–
–This encompasses the algae, sponges, feather dusters, vermeted snails, muscles, tunicates, and filter feeders of all kinds. They consume a range of suspended organics to broken down nitrates and are in my opinion the healthiest way to deal with nutrients, but this requires an elaborate refugium, and cryptic area of the reef containing some or all of the mentioned groups above.

By doing regular water changes, emptying your skimmer cup, cleaning your filters, changing your chemical media, and allowing continued growth of certain filter feeders you can ensure that potentially toxic nutrients get bound into living organisms or get removed from the system.

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